Eastern Oregon Run June '23

 There's a destination highway that connects Idaho near Kamiah to Montana at Lolo, near Missoula. You might have heard of Lolo pass. This year for part of summer break I wanted to hit it, so after agonizing about routes and weather for longer than necessary I finally made some motel reservations and set a date. The plan was like my usual, leave on a Monday, return Friday, hopefully miss the 4th of July traffic. Monday came around, and I was off.

Traffic from Western Oregon into Central Oregon was relatively light on Monday morning. Still, past the mountains it's boring for a while, just getting to the cool stuff. Lunch in Madras, fuel, then onward. I hit Fossil highway for the first time of the trip then continued on along through the canyons of highway 19. I almost hit two deer and saw a herd of elk. My route split off 19 then went up 402 towards Monument and Long Creek.

Pictured: a "sunken" mountain. Due to lack of zoom on my cell phone you can barely see it back there, the red earth.

At Long Creek I fueled up. They have premium and they aren't price gouging for it just because it's the middle of nowhere. 395 North. Just short of Dale Oregon I hit wet weather. The pavement was full wet and when I found the rain I pulled over to put on my Icon over jacket and Klim waterproof gloves. According to the forecast there were supposed to be light showers and a low chance of thunderstorms. Well, guess that forecast was a little off. Too bad because there's some great corners on that section of highway and I had to dial it back.

By Ukiah the rain had lightened up a little and I ran across a red VFR800 parked across from the "Gas station" there. I asked if he needed fuel, since the station there isn't much more than a guy that'll sell you some gas from a can. He had enough to make it to La Grande so we were off. Just outside of the town we passed a Sheriff but he didn't light us up. I passed the VFR rider and showed him what the more nimble Supersport could do. He finally caught up with my near Hilgard and we chatted for a while about bikes.

I checked in to my motel then went out for dinner. 375 miles.

While eating I looked at the forecast. The "slight chance" of showers and thunderstorms where I was heading had turned into a 80% chance of rain. Damnit. I was geared for a shower, not real rain. For that matter, I don't have real touring tires I'm still on sport tires that are near the end of their mileage.

The next morning La Grande was in the middle of a torrential rain storm. Checking the forecasts along the route I'd planned I saw the next three days turning into thunderstorms. It's hard to make a decision to scrap a vacation, but that's what I did. I cancelled the next night's motel and decided to retreat to Central Oregon where it's dry. The rain followed me back on Ukiah highway. I was more cautious this time because of the full wet conditions.

As I came around a corner I had to come to a stop because there was a herd of sheep in the road. Easily five hundred sheep being herded along. It took me a few minutes to idle may way through the herd but then I was riding on wet sheep shit for miles afterwards. Guess you can add that to the collection of other dirt and grime.

395 north was still wet but not as much of a driving rainstorm. Low traffic. Too bad it wasn't dry, there's some great curves there.

It finally got dry on highway 74 towards Hepner and I cruised North on 74 since I'd never been there. It wasn't anything that interesting, but now I know. After a short stint on I-84 I turned down Hwy 19 and had lunch in Arlington. While the pizza wasn't fantastic, the service was good and the AC in the restaurant worked.

Highway 19 is more fun but sedate enough for my post-lunch inattentiveness not to be fatal. Gas in Condon then south in Fossil to run Fossil-Antelope highway again. Mid-week the traffic is sparse, but unfortunately the last five miles or so are fresh chip seal from last year and it shedding, so the grip sucks. On a side note more than a few of the roads I'd planned to use I had to scrap because of chip seal operations. Some were announced on the state website, some weren't.

Pictured: the view from the top of the Fossil TT.

Heading northwest out of Condon on towards Cottonwood canyon, the stretch of road is one of those places where everyone goes 80+ because the road it long curves, there's nothing out here, and the next city isn't for miles. Never seen law enforcement out there, so imagine my surprise when I passed a sheriff. He lit me up and ticketed me. Fortunately he wrote it for 70 in a 55 instead of whatever I was actually doing. Still takes the fun out of things. Especially trying to keep it down the rest of the way to The Dalles.

Without a reservation I had to visit a few places before I found a motel with a room. Looking at the forecasts I decided to try to make my way back east again and ride the Baker City - Sumpter - Granite - Ukiah route. Cross your fingers? 390 miles for the day.

Going south out of The Dalles on a major highway sucks but there's only so many options. My plan went off rails when I turned on Shears Bridge road which has some cool corners and found they were actively chip sealing it. I waited there a few minutes and realized they were waiting for the fresh oil to set, that's going to take a while, so I went back to the highway and south. At Maupin there's a cool complex of corners on Bakeoven road, then the road goes up and over the prairie.

Bakeoven road is good for opening up the bike and has some long sweepers, even a few tighter turns, so don't get too distracted. It dumps into Highway 97, then you can go to Shaniko. There's a cardlock gas station there but they only have 87 octane and diesel. While topping off with 87 I saw someone had left a large bottle of octane booster on top of one of the pumps. Maybe that was Central Oregon hospitality or maybe someone was sabotaging dumb city slickers with their fast cars. I didn't sample it, too paranoid. My bike ran fine though on the diluted tank as I ran Fossil highway... again. Good reason to leave the ECU stock and have an oxygen sensor.

Pretty much I backtracked the way I'd already gone. Fossil to Monument to Long Creek then up 395. While riding north I spotted some dark clouds that weren't on the forecast.

Instead of going north to Ukiah and running that again I turned on Middle Fork road towards Galena. This is an open range area so you can't go too fast because you might hit a cow. It's a fun road though even though the further I got the more I realized I was riding right into possible thunderstorms. When I got to the highway 7 junction I saw the clouds were hanging on the mountains over towards Baker City. The cafe at the 7/26 junction was closed that day, so I went out 7 hoping for the best.

Well shit in one hand and hope in the other, see which fills up first. Once in the mountains the thunderstorm hit. I realized just how screwed I was since my rear tire was past the wear bars. 7 is the only route into Baker unless you go further east and take 245. I put on my rain jacket in the middle of the storm and idled my way back. The water was coming down so fast it wasn't draining and I didn't risk anything past thirty miles per hour!

By Austin junction the thunderstorms had fully developed in almost every direction. I went West, it was the best chance of getting out of it.

Pictured, see that place where the clouds are dumping? That's where I'm going.

I rolled into Prairie City just before the thunderstorm and found a cafe to eat lunch in. I'm out of rear tire and don't want to just hang around for the next two days while the storms clear. The error in my planning for the day was thinking that the forecast for Baker City applied to the mountains nearby. Nope. The mountains were going to stay rainy for the next two days! With that I decided to call it and head for home.

Pictured: shop window cats in Prairie City and some rock formations west of John Day.

I stayed the night in Prineville since I was exhausted. Finished riding home the next day.

Lolo pass will still be there later in the year. Better to not crash trying to push it. It was ill-advised to embark on a trip like that with as little tire life that was left, but I overestimated the mileage I could get out of them. As soon as I got home I cleaned my bike and messaged my friend with a tire machine. That evening I had my half used Pirelli Angel GT2s back on the bike, the oil changed, and already thinking about what's next. I had two thousand miles before the desmo service, so I need to schedule that.

Last Hurrah

The proverbial "they" say that you should always say "yes" to invitations, because then you live more and more invitations follow. Back in 2020 during the pandemic a gent named Paul from Washington showed up on one of the local FB motorcycle groups asking if any locals wanted to go riding in the area. I had nothing to do, so I said I'd go. He was a decent fellow and we rode around my favorite spots on a cold autumn day. Fast forward to 2022 and the season was once again closing. I'd been thinking "I need to go to NorCal or something for one last tour of the season" when Paul messaged me and asked me to go east with him. I said yes and after some last minute time off requests I packed my SuperSport 950s.

Of course I didn't want to skip out on work entirely so I had to get a late start to the day after an important/but not important zoom meeting, so my first day was just getting out there. Lebanon over the Santiam pass is fun, but then it's all flat and slow until after Prineville. I chose to go the highway 380/Paulina route which is more interesting and lower traffic than running the main highway out east. Everything was going great until I saw a smoke plume up ahead.

Well that ain't good because that's where I'm heading! Maybe I'll miss it, right? Nope. As I got closer I realized it was a prescribed burn that had gotten way out of hand. Fortunately they hadn't closed the road because backtracking would have been several hundred miles and I may not have had the gas! My pictures don't do it justice but there were tall trees fully engulfed, right off the road. The level of heat was intense along with burning debris raining down. I didn't stop in the hellish debris zone for obvious reasons so my photo isn't as good. As it turns out the idiot in charge of the burn on National Forest land decided to do it on a dry/windy day and thus it jumped the map lines into a neighboring ranch land. But if you live in Oregon long enough you get used to the Feds screwing up everything they touch, like the National Forest management. The idiot in charge got arrested, I'm sure he'll get a slap on the wrist.

The rest of the ride into John Day wasn't bad and I found my traveling companion Paul was already there with his Italian machine, a 2009 Aprilia Tuono.

I've stayed in some cheap places, but at least this cheap place was clean and no frills instead of just cheap. Beers were had and maps were looked over. The next day we were up before the sun for some breakfast and then off. It was sunny at least but cold. Mid 40s in John Day and as we went east and up in altitude it dropped into the 30s. My bike was flashing the ice warning at me! Would you know it, by the time we reached Hereford so Paul could photograph a falling down barn that he's been photoing for years as it falls down, my ten year old heated gloves that have been to Prudhoe bay and back, finally quit. Not optimal timing...

By the way the boathouse at Hereford is brown and if you get this joke, we can be friends.

Dooley Mountain road, Highway 245, is sometimes called the tail of the dragon Oregon edition because of it's curves. Unlike the dragon in Tennessee it isn't crowded with idiotic tourists in rented supercars and bicyclists. Usually it's covered in gravel though because it's used as an ag haul road, but since it's "after" season for that it was amazing and clean! Lots of fun.

On the way in to Sumpter, Oregon we got stuck behind a NF Ranger LEO and I wasn't sure if he'd ticket me, so I didn't pass his slow federal ass. The gas station at Sumpter has premium so we topped off the tanks then headed out on Granite hill road. There's some great curves on the road and past the summit it fresh pavement for about 9 miles. Naturally we had to do a do-over and ran that section again because of how fantastic it was. At Granite Oregon we met up again then rode north on NF-73 and then NF-51. Neither are in great shape, although the NF-73 section to Ukiah was chip sealed in June but the idiots at the National Forest service never finished the job so it'll fall apart in two years.

NF-51 isn't in great shape but it's beautiful. The fall colors up in the mountains are just fantastic in late October.

There's gas in Starkey Oregon but we didn't stop there due to a communication problem. Turns out I'm pretty much entirely deaf when wearing ear plugs and a helmet. NF-51 dumps into highway 244 which is just awesome, we ran that east, dropped into Lagrande for a late lunch and gas, then came back and ran 244 west to Ukiah. The third world gas station in Ukiah is closed by the way. The day had just warmed up when it started cooling off again as we made our way south on 395 with a gas stop in Dale for the thirsty Aprilia. Dale only has regular and I had enough so I didn't fill up. Am I a gas snob? Yeah, I am.

The section of highway Ukiah to Dale has absolutely fantastic sweeping curves and it's worth running twice. South of Dale we turned on Middle Fork Road/Galena Road. The pavement quality is iffy but it's a beautiful ride and at times it was hard to keep focused on the road because of the fall colors. I have a tendency to cruise at 90 or so when I'm out in sparsely populated areas which runs at odds with trying to enjoy the view. That road ends at 7 near Austin Junction at 26.

We stopped there to talk about trees. I've lived in Oregon most of my life and had no idea there was a needle tree that turned yellow in fall and lost it's foliage. Of course that's also because the trees in question don't grow in Western Oregon where I live. The Tamarack (Western Larch) looks like a fir tree to my uneducated eyes so I though all these firs everywhere were dying! Nope, just seasonal stuff. The ride back to John Day on 26 was uneventful. So much uneventful that I practiced my weave and swerve on the way into the city, then spotted a parked OSP cruised. Oops. But he didn't light me up. So that was nice.

Over dinner we looked at maps again and also the weather report. We were attempting to get in this ride before the fall rains hit and that had been a good plan up until the weather forecast moved ahead. Once again we got up early and headed out as soon as it was light. It was cold and my heated gloves didn't work. I'd worn my summer perforated leathers because I'm still in summer mode, along with not bringing my rain covers and liner for my luggage. At least I had my Icon over jacket which blocks the wind and rain decently.

Out of John Day on 395 we got flashed by an OSP but not pulled. Everyone goes 80 out there anyways. Highway 19 is pretty great canyon carving up into Kimberly to top off the tanks, they have premium there. Then 19 on in to Fossil where we took a short break but didn't need to top off on their 87 octane. The funny thing is how many flocks of turkeys we saw. Paul almost ran one of them over. Lots of Does also, but all the Bucks are nowhere to be seen.

Due to a communication breakdown I ran Fossil highway ahead of Paul and only got stuck behind other vehicles once. It was great and clear. Then I ran up the twisties to Shaniko and back where I ran into Paul and said goodbye. He went north to Maupin where his van was waiting and I headed west towards home. 

Just past Sisters in the mountains I hit the rain. It was awful and misty with poor vis. At least my heated jacket worked but I realized I was a dummy for not riding with my pinlock visor, I couldn't see jack shit for two hours of riding through the mountains. Thankfully the road stripes are visible.

It's time for the yearly service on the Ducati, so that'll happen in a little bit. The problem with going on a trip is that the day after you start thinking about where to go next. If gas wasn't an issue... somewhere south. Like the mountains outside of San Diego maybe, those look cool on the Butler map.

Eastern Oregon Run June 2022

With my new job comes a lot of time off. Give us more money to compensate for the insane inflation and cost of living increases? Nah, we'll just give you time off. Not one to look a gift horse in the mouth I decided to actually take a large chunk of time off this year. In years past while employed the most I'd ever taken off was a week and the world seemed to come to an end (although they still laid me off later). My summer vacation is going to be two whole weeks, but I only spent parts of four days on this tour.

With fresh tires on the Ducati I set out Monday afternoon. The idea was to get into Central Oregon and then start the real riding the next day so I'd be fresher, so I slept in and leisurely got my stuff packed and ready to go. Nothing really that interesting up and over the hill.

In Prineville I realized I was in town way earlier than I needed to be and it was hot. So I dropped my stuff off and ran out to Bowman dam for a few miles of bonus twisties. Lots of fun, and not a lot of traffic on a Monday evening. Back in Prineville I ran into a hiccup. Because it was hot, more than a few restaurants were closed prematurely. Apparently nobody wants to work in a hot kitchen when the mercury rises, who would have thought.

Tuesday morning was nice and brisk. I ate leftover pizza and drank pretty bad in-room coffee then set out on highway 26. This was just getting to the cool stuff although there is some good curves on 26. Highway 207 North near Mitchell is where the cool stuff starts That's the genuine canyon carving and mountain riding. Naturally I ran into some road work but at least it wasn't hot and the delay wasn't long. Traffic was sparse and by the time I reached Hepner I realized I was far ahead of schedule. Here I'd been worried about being able to put down the miles and being fresh and alert for the last cool roads, and I was ahead and in good shape. I guess I'd gotten used to the slower rate I go when I'm coordinating with other people. Breaks, gas, food, and leaving the motel all take longer.

From Hepner I rode out 74 and then dropped down 395. The views are amazing and I nearly ran off the road a few times admiring the deep canyons and pine forests. Even though I wasn't cooking too hard, going maybe 75, a state trooper flashed his lights at me. I guess he knows what I'm about, even if he didn't catch me doing it. That slowed me down for a few minutes until I was sure he wasn't flipping around...

From Ukiah to Hilgard on 244 went by in a flash and I swear it wasn't because I was averaging over 90. Or maybe it was. Near the Interstate it smells like a waste treatment plant... because there's a waste treatment plant there as part of the state juvenile prison there. I hopped on the interstate into La Grande, found my motel, realized I was way too early to check in and stop riding, and then after riding around in the heat for a while I sat down to eat a sub-standard sandwich and contemplate a bonus road.

That bonus came in the form of another run over the Blue Mountains, this time on highway 204 from Elgin to Weston and back. Usually I don't like to backtrack, but it was either backtrack or hit the slab and I'm glad I backtracked. It's 40 miles from Elgin to Weston, so it was 80 miles of amazing curves up and over the mountains, impressive vistas, clear traffic. It was a challenge to keep my eyes on the road because after the alpine vistas and clear blue lake there are rolling hills of wheat interspersed with green hills of grass and purple and yellow wild flowers. I know, slow down, right? Wrong. A road like this, on a bike like mine, it would simply be criminal to go slow.

It was nice and cool up top then I slowed down on the less fun and more trafficked highways back into La Grande. I found a nice Asian fusion place a mile and a half walk from the motel and then settled in for the night. Of course I asked nicely and they let me part my bike under the overhang next to the lobby.

Wednesday I got out as soon as the temperature came up enough. Wait, what? Yes, it had cooled off a lot and I was going to go up in elevation. I cruised down the interstate to North Powder and fueled up. I asked the ladies working at the c-store there about road conditions (surprise they didn't know) then I set out. The road out to Anthony Lakes ski resort is curvy and scenic although not in great shape. It isn't a go-fast road, the views are good, but the road doesn't let you take your attention off it. I should have stopped for better pictures of the Elkhorn mountains but alas sometimes I put off an opportunity until it's gone. At over 7700 feet it got cold and I was wearing perforated summer leathers.

NF73 (Elkhorn Scenic byway) joins up with N52 (Blue Mountains scenic) in the valley where it got more pleasantly warm. This part of the road was nice and flowing and some jackoff had just chip sealed it. The seal job wasn't complete yet, so I was stuck riding near 40 miles on loose gravel on into Ukiah. If the pavement on this section was done, it would have been an amazing ride and some of the views are quite nice. Open terrain of mountains and valleys, trees, all of it currently green, and thanks to the late rains not smoked in.

At the bustling metropolis of Ukiah I stopped at a food cart at the public park for a burger. Good thing Penny's Grill is there because the other restaurant in Ukiah appears to have closed. One other thing about Ukiah, don't count on getting gas there, the station is janky as hell. Good thing I didn't need gas. Another motorcycle tourist parked there and we exchanged road reports. On my way out another hot red Italian machine parked next to mine.

I ran the rest of the Blue Mountains scenic byway on into Hepner. From Hepner I rode to Condon, this section gets really windy and today was no exception. Windy to the point of causing problems riding, but I made it. At Condon I took a break and re-hydrated. Not that it was too hot, just extremely dry. Once again I was ahead of "schedule" so I took a side run out through Cottonwood canyon and back. If a curve is boring, go faster until it isn't! Back in Condon for a Red Bull, water, and gas, then on to Fossil! Fossil highway had a little work done to it but was mostly clear. I made great time, stopped for a photo to make people jealous, then on into Madras for the night.

I ate the world blandest Cubano sandwich then went for a hike.

At the Madras mountain identifier park I watched the sun setting for a little while until the noisy children someone had brought up impacted my calm and I returned to my motel for the evening.

Thursday I got up and swapped road reports and riding stories with some of the other riders at the motel. They were heading East while I was heading West and I'd ridden some of the roads they were heading to.

At the Madras airport there's an air museum that's has quite a few flight worthy aircraft. I wandered around it for an hour although doing so in motor cycle gear got to me and I left early. I'll have to go back, probably for the air show in August. I didn't take pictures of everything, obviously. It blew my mind getting that close to a lot of World War 2 aircraft to see the level of complexity and engineering that they had. Sometimes being a tech person I get into the mentality that everything before the information age was sticks and stones, but seeing the B-17 and other aircraft re-arranged that bias.

After the museum I rode home. Nothing all that interesting other than some light mishaps in Sisters, Oregon (which always happens. That place is just cursed for me). First a nap, then some cleaning to do!